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The Jerusalem Region
The Je rusalem area dresses were made from
predominantly silk fabric imported from Syrian textile production centers. Some
dresses
of
this area were made from velvet (mukhmal)
fabric imported from Europe. Blue, maroon and red velvet fabric was popular for
dresses in this area. Syrian fabric used in making these dresses were known as asawri,
ghabani and qasabi.
The embroidery on the chest panel, side
panels and sleeves of the Jerusalem dress were embroidered
in Bethlehem couching
stitch. The embroidery on the side skirt panel and the sleeves was done on
stripes of green with red, or red with orange taffeta inserts in Bethlehem-style
couching stitch and later added to the dress.
Beit Ania Ghabani dress
Jerusalem dresses have been worn in
villages bordering Jerusalem including Silwan, Lifta, Al Malha, Ain Karem, Kalonia, Beit Safafa, Al Ezariyyeh (Beit Ania), Deir Yassin, and Abu Dis. In the
1930s several villages began to use imported European velvet (mukhmal) fabric,
and black velvet became fashionable in
Ain Karem, and an imitation malak velvet fabric in the village of Lifta.
Silwan dress
Jacket (Taqsireh)
In the lat e
nineteenth early twentieth century, Jerusalem women wore a broadcloth jackets (taqsireh)
over the dress made of felt fabric and
embroidered with couching stitch. These jackets were made in Bethlehem for
Jerusalem area women. After the 1930s, jackets were made out of velvet fabric
and embroidered with gold silk thread.
Jerusalem mukhmal jacket
Headpiece
The headpiece in the Jerusalem villages was a small
cap (taqiyyeh) embroidered in cross-stitch or couching stitch, and sewn with
gold coins.
Veil
In the late nineteenth early twentieth century, a
veil (Ghudfeh) was worn over the cap, made of cotton, and embroidered with silk
thread in cross-stitch. The veil was embroidered with predominantly geometric
and abstract motifs, like, squares, eight pointed stars, feathers and other
motifs popular in this area.
The girdles worn in this region were made of Kashmir
fabric similar to Ramallah and other areas of Palestine.
Reproduction of old Jerusalem veil.
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